I have a clothing DIY to share with you today, and one that involves a bit of skill. This week I am tackling making jeans from scratch and the first time and sharing the process with you.

I have made lots of clothing over the past year and thought it was time to add to this collection. For the longest time, I have wanted to tackle a trickier (or perceived trickier) project and have a go at making jeans. Well, I have finally completed my first pair of jeans and I am sharing the process of making them with you. Hopefully, this will inspire you to have a go, or even help you make your pair.

Sit tight, because this is a long-ish post, so I will jump right into it. If you want to follow along via video, you can find that at the bottom of the post. So, grab a cuppa and let’s get making jeans!

Making Jeans – The Dawn Jeans

Now, I haven’t got a clue where to start with drafting patterns and therefore rely on fabulous sewing patterns to make clothing. This time around I am using the ‘Dawn Jeans’ by Megan Neilson. The ‘Dawn Jeans’ are a versatile jean sewing pattern, with so many options of styles to create. This includes skinny fit, relaxed skinny and flared. There is the option to change the length to create a cropped version of jeans, which is what I have chosen to do. In addition to this, there is a bonus addition to the pattern with a variety of fly fastenings, including buttons and zippers, with the latter being my choice.

The important thing to note with this pattern is it is designed for stiff denim rather than stretchy denim. It has the fitted vintage look to it, so is quite fitting to take that in mind too when sizing and your denim choice.

I am making these jeans in pattern size 12 after taking my body measurements. I would usually purchase clothing in a size 10, however, sewing pattern sizing varies so much from ready to wear clothing. Therefore, make sure you take your measurements and find the correlating sizing in the pattern. I probably should have graded the waistband, as this is a little big on me in this area, but didn’t feel confident in doing this for the first time-making jeans.

Making Jeans – What you need:

To make the Dawn Jeans you are going to need a few different items. As this is a thicker and stiffer fabric, you need to make sure you have the correct type of needle, as well as sewing thread. Some items on this list are affiliate links and are marked with an asterisk (*)
Here is what I used to make the jeans:

• 8oz bleach washed denim – from Minerva fabrics
• Alternate fabric for pockets – I am using a blue gingham viscose, which I used to make a cropped top
• Jean sewing needles*
• Topstitch needles*
• Matching cotton thread and contrasting topstitch thread*
• Jeans zip*
• Jeans buttons*
• Rivets*
• Sewing pins* or clips*
• Rotary cutter*
• Sewing machine
• Fusible interfacing*
• (optional) Faux leather patches

Step 1 – Preparing Pieces

The first thing to do with making jeans is to prepare the fabric. There are several preparations to complete. With all sewing projects, I like to wash the fabric I am going to use. Therefore wash, dry and iron out any creases before marking and cutting out the pattern pieces of the jeans. Washing the denim will allow for any shrinkage that may occur before the finished garment. You don’t want it shrinking after making, for them to not fit!

After cutting all the pattern pieces, it is time to add interfacing to the waistband pieces. On several of the pieces complete a row of staystitching. This is on the yoke, top edge of the front pieces and the pocket facings. This is to reduce the stretch on these areas so they fit the waistband. These pieces can stretch out of place because of how they are cut.

Finally, it is beneficial to complete some overlocking stitches or zig-zag stitches along the front crotch curve. This will protect these edges from fraying and give a bit of stability to this area.

Before completing any sewing, it is best to test out the stitching of both the regular thread and topstitching thread over several layers of denim. Use scrap pieces for this and make note of what works best for the fabric and your sewing machine. Topstitching is thicker and therefore may be a bit harder to sew, I know I found this difficult at times. Keep your jean needles and topstitching needles handy as the project calls for swapping and changing them throughout the construction.

Step 2 – Complete Zip Fly

The first part of making jeans in this project is to complete the zipper fly. I have chosen the zip fly for my jeans, but there are button flies available with the project. I will walk you through the steps of adding in the zip.

First fold the front extension piece in half, right sides together, matching the notches. Sew a line across the bottom edge, then turn right side out. Press out the corner and press the seam. Then, finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch, as well as one edge of the fly pattern piece.

Adding the zip

Next, it is time to add the zip to the fly extension. Line up the edge of the zip (right side up) with the finished edge of the extension piece. Using a zipper foot, sew the two tighter with regular thread. Then, place this piece right side together on the front right leg, lining up with the front crotch. Make sure to match up notches. Sew along with regular thread to connect the zipper piece to the front of the jean leg.

Now it is time to sew the first topstitching. Fold the zipper part back so it is facing upwards, and sew along the edge with topstitching thread. Complete this neatly as the contrasting topstitch will show.

On the left leg piece, attach the fly piece in the same way the extension piece was added to the right leg. Use regular thread to attach, lining up the notches with the crotch on the front piece. Press the fly to the inside of the jean front, and then use topstitching thread to go along the now-folded edge.

Next, place the two front legs together, right sides touching and baste stitch along the curved crotch seam. Open up the jeans so the two front pieces are facing upwards. The fly should overlap the zip and fly extension, and line up with the centre front of the jean front. Pin this into place and on the wrong side pin the zip to the fly piece only. Sew two rows of stitching in the regular thread, one at the edge of the zip tape and one as close to the zip teeth as possible. The pattern instructions will tell you the exact measurements to use.

Making Jeans – Complete Zip fastening

Unpick the baste stitching of the crotch seam, and fold the zip extension piece away so that it isn’t caught. This makes the topstitching easier to complete.

The pattern advises sewing two rows of basting topstitching, however, I went straight in with the topstitching. Doing the baste stitching will allow for a line to follow with the topstitching thread, and hopefully, make it neater. Then complete two rows of topstitching from the top edge, and follow to the curve of the zip. Make sure not to sew through the other leg or fly extension pieces.

Then unpin the fly extension and lay the two-leg pieces right sides touching, and use regular thread to sew the curved crotch edge. Press the seam allowance to the left, or the same side as the zip.

Mark the bottom of the zip (metal part). From the bottom of the crotch, sew a line of topstitching to just below the mark, pivoting the needle at this point. Sew a second row of topstitching back towards the crotch edge.

 Just above two rows of topstitching, complete a bar tack. This is a tight zig-zag stitch used to add stability to areas of stress on the garment. Complete another bar tack where the topstitching on the front of the jeans begins to curve. This is slightly up and across from the first bar tack.

The zip area is now complete. It sounds complicated but goes in fairly easily and quickly.

Step 3 – Complete Pockets

Before sewing the jeans together, we have to add in the pockets. The pockets are made up of several layers of fabric and have detailing topstitching.

First, it is time to sew the coin pocket, the tiny little pocket in the main pocket. Fold the top edge once, pressing and then once again, pressing it into place. Complete a row of topstitching on the top folded edge of the coin pocket, and then the bottom of the fold.
Then fold the long edge inwards, pressing into place. Only fold this once. On the right pocket facing, use the pattern piece to line up where the coin piece should sit. Then, complete two rows of topstitching along the folded side edge to connect the two. The topstitching will cross the original topstitching, creating a square in the corner. The two should be connected along that one edge.

Along the curved edges of the pocket facings (including the one with the coin pocket), zig-zag stitch to finish the edge.

Making Jeans – Add pocket bags

Connect the pocket bag pieces (these will be the contrasting fabric) to the pocket facings. These will connect with wrong sides together, with the side seam and waistline notches matching up. Then, places these right sides up onto the front pieces of the jeans, lining up the curves of the pocket openings. Sew with regular thread along the pocket openings.

Fold the pockets towards the inside and press along the opening. The pocket bag will it inside and be over the zip (at the back) at this point. Topstitch two rows across the pocket opening. This will secure the pocket bag down into the pocket. Repeat for both pockets.

Turn the jeans so they are wrong sides up and fold the pocket bags so they line up with the side seams. Along the bottom of the pocket bag, sew a seam with regular thread to close it up. Then finish the raw edge with zig-zag stitches.

Finally, baste stitch the pocket bag edges to the side seams to hold in place for now.

Back Pockets

These jeans have back pockets too. To add a bit of flair to the pockets I am adding extra topstitching, but this is optional. Closet Core Patterns have several back pocket stitching patterns to try out, and I am using number 20 in the pack.

To start, fold the top edge of the pocket as you did with the small coin pocket. Complete two rows of topstitching as before.
If you want to add a design, now is the time to do it. Trace the pattern design onto the back pocket pieces with an erasable marker, making sure to line up where the side topstitching will be. Then head to the machine and carefully topstitch along the markings created.

Complete the back pockets by folding in the three remaining edges, and pressing. Then, take the back leg pieces, mark where the pockets will be from the pattern pieces, and complete two rows of topstitching along the three folded edges. One row one the folded edge and one more slightly in from this.

Then the back pockets are complete and it is time to begin forming the jeans by connecting the jean legs and adding in the waistband.

Step 4 – Add in the Yoke

Before adding in the waistband, we have to first add in the yoke. A yoke is a shaped pattern piece designed to give support to looser parts of the garment.

Line the yoke pieces on the two back leg pieces. Connect along the raw edge with the regular thread. Press the seam downwards towards the pockets. Finish this off with two rows of topstitching.

Next, line the two back leg pieces right sides together, lining up the notches and the yoke seams. Pin in place, then sew with the regular thread. Finish this edge with a zig-zag stitch.
Press this seam towards the left leg. Using topstitching thread, topstitch along this centre seam, followed by another row of topstitching next to it.

Step 5 – Connecting the Leg Pieces

Now we have come to attach the front and back pieces of the jeans. Place the front pieces on top of the back pieces right sides touching. Match up the notches along the inseam (inside leg). Use regular thread to connect the two, sewing from the bottom edge of one leg, all the way around to the other bottom edge of the second leg.
Finish these seams with a zig-zag stitch and press the seams towards the front of the jeans.

To finish, complete two rows of topstitching along that newly sewn seam, keeping even distance the whole way around.

Making Jeans – Baste Stitch and Try on

Turn the jeans back inside out, and line up the two outer side seams, again matching notches. Baste stitch the side seams together and then the moment of truth. Try the jeans on to make sure they fit, hopefully, you won’t have to make any adjustments. If you do, now is the time to do it. The jeans may feel snug on the hips, but that is the design of them. They will loosen as the jeans are worn in.

When happy, re-sew the side seams with regular thread. Finish off both side seams with zig-zag stitches and press the seams towards the back of the jeans. Then, on the right side of the jeans, mark the bottom of the pocket bag. Then sew a row of topstitching from the top edge to the bottom of this pocket bag. Complete with a bar tack at the bottom of this topstitching.

Then the jeans are taking shape, and are nearly complete!

Step 6 – Complete Belt Loops and Add Waistband

Before attaching the waistband, we need to add in the belt loops. On the belt loop strip, zig-zag one long edge. Then fold in the unfinished edge to the middle, folding the finished edge over this so you have a thinner strip. The raw edge will be on the inside and concealed. Using topstitching thread sew two rows of topstitching on either edge of the strip.
Measure the strip into 9cm increments, marking and cutting these down. You will need five of these for the belt loops.

Place the belt loops onto the jean legs, lining up to the waistline. One will sit on the centre back seam, with two more just in from the side seams on the back of the yoke. Two belt loops will sit on the front near the topstitching of the pockets. Use regular thread to secure the jean legs along the top waistline edge. Leave these as they are for the moment and begin adding in the waistband.

Making Jeans – Adding waistband

At this point, the waistband pieces should already have fusible interfacing on, if not add it now. Then place one of the waistband pieces along the raw edge of the waistline and yoke. Match up the notches (there are no notches along on the upper side of the waistband). Pin into place. The waistband will extend slightly over the fly extension part of the jeans. Sew along this raw edge with regular thread to secure it in place. Press the waistband and the seam allowance up.

Take the second waistband piece and fold the bottom edge 1.5cm (wrong sides touching), pressing into place. Place this waistband piece against the raw edge of the attached waistband piece, with the folded edge at the bottom, right sides touching.

Sew together with regular thread, up and along the waistband top edge, pivoting at the corners. Then, grade the seam allowances of both waistband pieces. This means cutting one seam allowance down close to the stitching and then cutting the other piece just slightly larger. Cut the corners as well, making sure not to cut through the stitching.

Fold the waistband pieces to the right sides out, pushing out the corners and pressing. Make sure the folded edge of the waistband covers the raw edge of the other waistband piece. Pin to keep it in place. Then use topstitching thread, topstitching around all of the edges of the waistband. Make sure to capture and close the raw edges.

Finish Belt Loops

Now we can complete the belt loops. I had to hand-wind my sewing machine due to the chunkiness of the denim. Flip the belt loops up, folding in the top raw edge. Line this up to the top of the waistband, pin and topstitch into place. Complete by topstitching the bottom of the belt loop also.

Step 7 – Hem

Now this step is interchangeable and can be swapped with the next step. I completed the hem first, as I had to wait for the correct size waist button to be delivered. However, you can finish the hem after adding buttons and rivets.

Complete a rolled hem to hem the jeans. Simply fold the raw edge up once, pressing and then folding again and pressing. Using topstitching thread, sew along the top of the folded edge all the way around. Press again to complete.

You can leave the jeans un-hemmed if you want a frayed looked. My jeans are cropped, and I like the rolled look, so after hemming, I have rolled the bottom edges twice.

Step 8 – Adding Buttons and Rivets

Now it is time to complete the jeans with all the hardware, including the waist button and rivets for the classic jeans look.
First, you need your button to determine the size buttonhole you need. Place the waistband together where they overlap slightly. Mark approximately 1.2cm in from the edge. Use the buttonhole feature on the sewing machine. I was unable to use the topstitching thread to complete the buttonhole, and therefore used the regular thread. I was also unable to do the classic keyhole buttonhole, even with practising, and therefore have sewn a regular buttonhole. They advise spraying with fray check after this method, however, I haven’t and the buttonhole is holding up okay at the moment.

Add the Button

Open the buttonhole, and then clip the two waistband pieces together (as if they are fastened). Use an erasable marker, and mark through the buttonhole as to where the jeans button will sit. After adding, I have found the button could sit a little bit further over, so check, then check and double-check again the positioning before adding.
The button I am using is a screw-in button, which allows for an easy changeable front button by unscrewing. Some jeans buttons are a shank fastening and have to be closed together with force. First, create a hole where the button marking is. Then place the back of the button through and place the top of the button on. Screw this into place and the waist button should be ready to go.

Add Rivets

One of the final parts to add to the jeans are rivets. Rivets add stability to areas of stress on the jeans. These are generally placed on the corners of the pockets. Now, you do need a bit of added equipment to add these, luckily my pack of rivets came with a tool to help add them. You will also need a sturdy surface and a hammer to secure in place.

Create a hole where the rivet will be. You can use an awl or a piercing tool (the pack I bought came with one). Then thread the post of the rivet through this hole, so the spike is coming through to the front. Then place the cap of the rivet on top of this. Place the tool provided over both rivets and then use a hammer to whack them into place and together.

Add Patch (Optional)

I wanted to add a faux leather patch to my jeans as you see on a pair of Levi’s for example. I bought mine from Etsy with a custom logo “Miss Aimsy’s”. Simply use the topstitching thread and a hand sewing needle and hand sew them into place. You can use the machine, depending on the style of patch you have. Mine had holes in the four corners, so I thought it looked best hand sewing.

After these hardware pieces are added the Dawn jeans are complete and ready to show off.

That is the process of making jeans. I can’t believe how well these turned out since it was my first time making jeans. They are not perfect, but is anything ever perfect? Let me know what you think of these jeans in the comments below! Will you be making your pair?

Making Jeans for the First Time – Video

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