I’ve got another clothing DIY for you in today’s post. Today, I will show you how I made it, and how you can make cropped wide-leg trousers. A really easy clothing project using a Tilly and the Buttons sewing pattern.

I have featured a few clothing sewing projects recently on the blog, and today I am sharing with you another. These cropped wide-leg trousers are a really easy sewing project. Like these DIY Jogging Bottoms, DIY Pyjamas and DIY Hoodie, I am using another Tilly and the Buttons’ sewing pattern to make these trousers.

The trouser pattern is the ‘Safiya’ Trousers from the Tilly and the Buttons Make it Simple book* (affiliate link). It is a simple pattern, that you can adapt to include pockets, and even into a loose-fitting jumpsuit. In this project, I am making the cropped trousers with pockets. Because, who doesn’t love pockets, right?

I will walk through the steps of putting these cropped wide-leg trousers together, so if you are making this pattern, hopefully, it will help. Or, it will give you a bit of inspiration and ideas of how to sew these types of trousers together.
Don’t forget to check out the video version of this post as well at the end of the post!

DIY Cropped Wide-Leg Trousers

To make these fabulous cropped wide-leg trousers I am using a black and white pattern viscose fabric. This is from Minerva Fabrics and was £5.99 per metre. I love the pattern on this fabric, as it makes these trousers a great transition piece in the wardrobe. Perfect for the ever-changing weather here in the UK! It’s also perfect because it is lightweight, and has a great drape, making the trousers more swishy.
To complete the trousers I also have 5cm wide elastic for the waistband. This means that the trousers are a simple make, without the need for any closures or zips to sew in. So, if you are just getting into sewing your own clothes, then these trousers are a great piece to make.

Adapting the Pattern

To make the cropped wide-leg trousers, I had to make a few adjustments to the pattern. I am only 5″3, which means I shortened the length of them to make them cropped for my height. In all honesty, I could have left them and they would sit above the ankle. However, I like the look of the cropped length.
I also adjusted the crotch seam, shortening it by approx 3cm on each front and back pieces of the pattern.

To make both of the adjustments, I traced the pattern onto sewing tracing paper. Then, followed the guidelines of where to shorten and lengthen. I am making the trousers in the pattern size 4 also. As I said before, there are other alterations to add to the pattern, and I am adding the pockets too.

Step 1 – Cutting out the Fabric

Once the pattern pieces are ready, it is time to place this on the fabric and cut them out. You want to make sure that all of the markings from the pattern have been traced onto the pattern pieces. That way the grainline is correct to help the fabric drape properly. To find the grainline, this is usually parallel to the selvedge edges of the material.
None of the fabric needs to be cut on the fold, but the fabric is still folded to get the two pieces for each of the leg pieces. There are also four pieces for the pockets.

I like to use a rotary cutter to cut through the fabric, but sharp sewing scissors do the job just as well. After cutting out, it is important to remember to snip in the notches from the pattern too. This is especially important for the pocket pieces to help them line up correctly when sewing.

Step 2 – Begin Sewing the pockets

The first thing to do is zig-zag the raw edges of the fabric. This acts like an overlocking stitch to trap the raw edge to stop any fraying of the material. Then it is time to place a pocket piece over each front leg trouser piece. This should line up with the notches on the leg side seams and sit around 7cm down from the top edge.

Then down this edge, stitch a seam approximately 1cm to attach the two pieces together. Repeat the process with the two back leg and pocket pieces. When this is complete, an understitch is sewn to secure the pocket seam allowance. This helps to hide the pockets on the inside of the trousers when wearing. To sew the understitch, the seam is finger pressed, with the seam allowance pressing away from the leg pieces. Then a line of stitching is sewn close to the seam on the seam allowance side to secure the seam allowance down.

Step 3 – Joining the legs of the Trousers

After sewing the pocket pieces, it is time to join the legs together. Place matching front and back leg pieces together, right sides touching. Keep the pockets folded outwards rather than inside the leg pieces, and match the edges of each together. Head to the sewing machine and stitch down from the top edge of the trousers until 2cms below the start of the pocket. Backstitch to aid in strengthening the seam, as we are going to leave a gap. Then, begin sewing from the top corner of the outer edge of the pocket, following the curve of the pocket piece. Pivot when you reach where the trouser and pocket pieces meet, carrying on the seam down the edge of the trousers.
The pocket piece close to the inside seam is not sewn at this part and will form the opening of the pockets on the trousers.

Next, it is time to press the pockets inside the trousers by folding the trouser legs wrong sides together (the outer seam remains open at this point). This helps the pockets lay flat inside the trousers. Head back to the sewing machine and with the pocket piece pressed against the front leg part, sew a stay stitch across the top of the pocket bag. This attaches the pocket to the trousers. Don’t worry as this stitching will be eventually hidden in the waistband.

Finally, sew the inner leg seam on both trouser pieces to connect the legs. Remember not to sew the inside crotch seam at this point. Check the video at the end of the post for this (I forgot to take a picture of this part…oops!)

Step 4 – Connecting the Trousers Together

Turn one of the trouser pieces right side out, keeping one the wrong way out. Place the right side leg inside the wrong side leg and match up the seams and notches along the crotch seam. Pin in place and jump on the sewing machine, sewing the crotch seam together. The trousers cropped wide-leg trousers should now be forming.
To finish the seam, this can be zig-zag stitched and pressed to one side.

Step 5 – Create the Waistband

The waistband on the trousers is elasticated at the back, with the front laying flat. To create the channel for the elastic, fold and press the top raw edge down to the wrong side around 1.5cm. Then, fold this down again, keeping the top folded edge inside this, approx 3.5cm. Again pressing this into place.

The front part of the waistband will not contain elastic, so this needs to be marked out with pins. Measure equal amounts from the front crotch seam towards the side seams. This measurement will depend on the size of the trouser that you are making, and the length of the elastic. Place pins in both these points. We will not be sewing this part just yet.

Topstitch the back of the waistband, following from the pins in place, remembering not to sew the front part of the waistband and backstitching these two marker points. Then, place safety pins in the two ends of the elastic, and use these to thread the elastic through the channel. Make sure the elastic does not twist during this. Secure each end of the elastic to the designated part, not the trouser front. Sew these in place, remembering to backstitch to secure the stitching.

Next, finish off the waistband by topstitching the front flat part. Make sure this is neatly sewn as it will be slightly showing. The waistband is now complete.

Step 6 – Hem the Trousers

The final thing to do with the trousers is to hem the bottom of them. To do this, fold and press the raw edge up towards the inside by 1cm. Then re-fold this so that the raw edge is inside, by a further 1.5cm, pressing and pinning into place.
Head to the sewing machine and sew along near to the top folded edge of the hem to secure it in place. This will show on the outside of the trousers slightly, so make sure that it is neat stitching.

Finish with a final press of the whole garment and you have your very own handmade cropped wide-leg trousers!

Let me know what you think of these cropped wide-leg trousers in the comments below. Would you wear this style?

Cropped Wide-Leg Trousers | Video

Here is the video version of the process of making these cropped wide-leg trousers. If you enjoy the video, then don’t forget to give it a big thumbs up over there. If you want to keep up with more of my creative antics over on YouTube, then don’t forget to subscribe to my channel! It would be lovely to see you over there!

Cropped Wide-Leg Trousers | Share it!

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